Recounts author's experience as a homeowner in Puy-en-Velay, the site of one of France's most important Marian cathedrals. Puy is situated in "la France profonde," the most rural region of France, l'Auvergne. La Chapelle St. Michel, which sits atop a sugar loaf formed from ancient volcanic lava rock, is a spectacular monument visited yearly by throngs of tourists from around the globe. Because of the massive amounts of lava, le Velay is also prone to frequent thunder and lightning storms.