your thundering heartbeat on that first ? Or the pure joy of those early morning paddle-outs with your original set of surf buddies? Or the uncertainty of splashing into a 45-degree winter ocean while encased in more rubber than the ?Then spin your board around and drop into this captivating set of surf stories by Earl Shores. But don't worry if you've never climbed into a Michelin Man-like layer of neoprene for a wintertime wave fix. All you need to enjoy is your sense of adventure and a sense of humor. And be ready to shake the sand from your trunks and the water from your ears as you turn the final page.